Aluma-Foil Super Plus 500sq ft Roll - Perforated
An Attic Without Aluma-Foil is like a House without Insulation!
Aluma-Foil reflects 97% of the radiant heat that hits its surface.
By installing an Aluma Foil Radiant Barrier, you no longer have to suffer warm evening hours while it has already cooled off outside! Even with rising energy costs, your comfort does not have to be sacrificed because of radiant heat gain.
Aluma Foil is not just for summer. During the winter, your home loses heat as it migrates toward the outside cold. With Aluma Foil, more heat is retained inside by keeping temperatures more stabilized inside - in your home's attic.
Aluma Foil Super Plus includes a Polyester Scrim. Recommended where access is limited due to low roof slope or when it is used to primarily reduce heat loss in colder climates.
Aluma Foil Super Plus is one of the strongest radiant barriers available on the market today. Super Plus is designed to hold up against the most difficult installations.
Schematic Key
- Aluma-Foil Super Plus installed to the bottoms of the top chord of roof truss (note that this type of installation radiant barrier must be applied to all gable and walls as well).
- Aluma-Foil Super Plus can be laid down when access is limited due to low roof slope or when it is used primarily to reduce heat loss in colder climates.
- Proper venting is important in order to remove unwanted heat that builds up in an attic. Example; sofit and ride as shown above.
- Dimensions: available in 4 different widths (all rolls are 500 square feet): 14.5", 22.5", 25.5" or 51"
Chemically Sensative?
Aluma-Foil is a great chemical barrier for those who suffer from Multiple Chemical Sensitivity (MCS). For new and existing residential construction, Aluma-Foil acts as a toxic barrier to block out off-gassing building materials by reducing the movement of toxic chemicals.
Is Aluma Foil Durable?
Yes! Aluma Foil Super Plus is layered with polyester and a scrim between the aluminum layers, which gives it maximum strength and longenvity.
Frequently Asked Questions / FAQ
I've seen three version of Aluma Foil: plain Aluma-Foil, Aluma-Foil HD, and Aluma-Foil Super Plus. Which one is the best?
Aluma Foil Super Plus is the highest quality version of Aluma-Foil.
- Plain Aluma-Foil is just: Foil / Liner / Foil,
- Aluma-Foil HD is: Foil / Scrim / Kraft /Perforated,
- and Aluma-Foil Super Plus is: Foil / Polyester / Scrim / Foil / Perforated.
Do I have to install your radiant barrier shiny side up?
No. Radiant Barriers work by reflecting infra-red energy which is not visible light. Most products have one shiny side and one dull side. This finish look is created in rolling mills, when they make the aluminum sheeting. Both sides could be dull and they would work the same.
Will the radiant barrier work if I use it in place of the felt, when I replace my roof?
No. All Radiant Barriers must face an airspace on one side to work. That space can be as small as 3/4" but, it is the foil surface AND the air space it faces that together become the barrier. If you used barrier material in place of felt you would have two problems:
- First, if the metallic barrier material is in direct contact with the roofing material on one side and the roof sheathing on the other, it will act as a conductor for heat rather than a barrier.
- Second, the local building dept. might be unhappy with you for using a product that is not approved for that installation. Being approved as a good vapor retarder, as all our RB products are (unperforated), doesn't qualify them as underlayments.
Can I install your products directly under my roof sheeting?
Yes, but only the two products that are offered perforated. The foil side, of the Aluma-Foil HD product must, face the airspace below. The perforations in this type of installation are necessary to prevent the trapping of moisture in the roof that may pre-exist in the OSB or plywood sheathing. This is a very popular method of installation in either new construction or re-roofing of an existing structure. Do not forget to install RB on the gable ends and knee walls when installing in this method.
How important is venting in my attic?
Very. The primary reason attics are vented to begin with is to remove moisture that moves into your attic from your home below. Without venting, damage could develop in the form of mildew and dry-rot over the years and be both unhealthful, as well as very expensive to repair. A good rule to remember is to allow one square foot of ventilation for every 150 square feet of roof area. Good venting will improve the performance of your radiant barrier and insulation.
How do I know which radiant barrier is best for what I want to do?
First of all, all radiant barriers perform the same, as long as their emittance is the same. It doesn't matter whether they have a paper core material, a bubble, mylar or any other substrate. They all do the same thing. It is a matter of cost, handling and how the manufacturer warrants their product. Don't be afraid to ask a manufacturer for a specification sheet and sample of the product your choosing. All attic radiant barriers must have a Class "A" flame spread rating and if they are to be used as a vapor retarder also they must have a rating of 1.0 perm or less. All aluminum foil sheeting has an emittance of .02 to .05 and a reflectance of 98-95%.
Are moisture and dust a problem if I lay a radiant barrier on top of my existing attic insulation?
Moisture should not be a problem as long as you use the Super Plus perforated product. This should adequately remove the moisture moving from your home below into the attic above. The dust issue is simple. If you live in an area that is windy, and dusty, you will have a problem. Because of this and the fact that we cannot tell you how much a problem this might be we do not recommend this application technique. Dust is very conductive and will reduce the reflectance over time.
If I have ducts in my attic, above my insulation, should I cover them with RB?
Absolutely, the average duct, if it is insulated at all, will only have an R-3 to R-5 insulation wrapped around it. That is considerably less than the insulation below it! And, its closer to the source of heat gain in the summer. Who knows why anyone would built like that! RB will greatly improve your energy savings when you wrap the ducts. However, if the ducts are already wrapped in foil, even if they only have an R-3 or R-5, you don't need to wrap them again.
What other uses are there for your radiant barriers?
Many. You can put it on the back of your garage doors to knock down the heat. Its excellent for wrapping water heaters, pipes, lining crawl spaces, ferring pens, pole barns, tool sheds, airplane hangars and many other applications. It can also be used in walls and floors, as long as a minimum airspace of 3/4" is allowed between the building material and the foil surface. Anytime you want to prevent heat gain, or heat loss, you probably should consider using a radiant barrier.
What about using "foil chips" in my attic? Wouldn't that be just as good as laying down your product on my existing insulation?
No. Some manufacturers claim their product performs better than other RB products and that they are not subjected to such problems as dust on the surface, affecting its performance. When in doubt, you need to demand that the seller provide you with acceptable test data on their product. Compare and don't be taken in by false claims. For example, all RB products installed in attics must have a flame spread rating of 25 or less according to UBC(Uniform Building Code). That means the supplier must be able to provide you with a copy of this test if you request it. When in doubt, ask them to supply documentation! Those companies who sell radiant barriers in the state of California must also be approved, and listed, by the State of California, Bureau of Home Furnishings.
